On Friday we rented a car and drove 40 minutes up to Finca San Cayetano, a posh farm stay at the base of Fuego volcano, towering just above us at 12,300+ ft. We hoped to see it erupt overnight as our cabaña was beautifully situated with a hot tub and perfect views of the volcano. But, a wind storm blew in and it turned into quite an experience. Warm sustained winds howled at 20 MPH with gusts to 45 or so. No rain, just a relentless gale all night and the next morning. Fuego is one of the most active volcanos in the world but for us, just a bit of steam and rumble, no fire. The views were so beautiful though that it was worth being there just for that.

Then Saturday we drove 2.5 hours, only 30 miles west as the crow flies but about 85 miles on local roads. Driving anywhere here takes patience and nerves of steel. We arrived midafternoon at Lake Atitlàn and the comfort of a Guatemalan friend’s home with gorgeous extensive gardens down to the shore. We relaxed in the lap of luxury for a day, enjoying the hot tub and the views. But early Sunday morning the electricity went out and hence so did the water and internet. The cook said that she didn’t have much hope for it coming back on due to it being the weekend. So we hung out until noon but decided because of the circumstances to return to Antigua earlier than originally planned.

Before heading all the way back, we drove a few hours to the north shore to take in the views over the lake of even more volcanos. The journey back took us along an awe inspiring 1,500 foot deep canyon and farmed valley. The road then became more iffy with slip and rock slide areas giving way to a section where the bridge was out. We had to ford a river in the rental car! A long moment of hesitation as we watched a motorcycle cross so we could gauge its depth and we were coached on the best track by a group of ragamuffin local kids. So eventually we made it across fine in low gear. It did take my breath away though.

Also, in a moderate sized village closer to Antigua, we landed in the midst of a funeral for two of the pueblo’s citizens. Some 1200 or so townspeople filled the street with young girls in front carrying photos of the deceased. A multitude of flowers engulfed us and the hoisted coffins passed within feet of our car in procession down the main street as we stared on helplessly until they all passed.

Our time here in Guatemala is nearly up – Friday morning we leave to spend the month of February in Mexico City. We have really enjoyed the whole experience so far. Antigua is a real gem!

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